Visiting Kalpa in the colder months is a different kind of adventure

By Ajit Brar

While many travelers flock to the popular tourist hubs of Himachal, a select few seek out the raw, unadulterated beauty of the Kinnaur Valley. And at the heart of this valley, perched at an altitude of 2,759 meters, lies Kalpa—a village that transforms into a serene, snow-covered wonderland during winter. Visiting Kalpa in the colder months is a different kind of adventure, trading lush greenery for breathtaking, pristine snowscapes and a profound sense of tranquility.

The main reason to visit Kalpa in winter is a single, magnificent sight: the majestic Kinnaur Kailash range. This mountain range, with its sacred Kinnaur Kailash Shivling peak, is visible in all its glory from Kalpa. In winter, the peaks are completely covered in snow, and the rising and setting sun paints them in stunning hues of gold, pink, and crimson. It’s a view that feels almost spiritual.

• The Kinnaur Kailash View: The highlight is undoubtedly the uninterrupted, jaw-dropping panoramic view of the Kinnaur Kailash range. Waking up to this sight is a moment you’ll cherish forever.
• Pristine Snowfall: Kalpa receives heavy snowfall from December to March, turning the village and its famous apple orchards into a magical, white landscape. It’s a paradise for photographers and those who simply want to experience the silence and beauty of a snow-covered village.
• Less Crowded: Unlike the peak season, winter brings fewer tourists, allowing you to experience the authentic Kinnauri lifestyle and the serene environment without the usual crowds.
• A Taste of Adventure: Reaching Kalpa in winter is a test of will, but the journey through the winding, snow-laden roads and the cold climate adds an adventurous layer to your trip.

While the village itself is a destination, there are a few places to explore, depending on the accessibility due to snow.

• Suicide Point: Don’t let the name deter you. It is located a few kilometers from Kalpa and offers an amazing view of the deep gorges of the Sutlej River valley. The sheer drop and the surrounding snow-covered landscape make for an exhilarating view.
• Roghi Village: A short trek or a brief drive from Kalpa will take you to Roghi. This small village is a perfect example of traditional Kinnauri architecture and offers another perspective of the valley.
• Hu-Bu-Lan-Kar Monastery: Kalpa is a beautiful blend of Hindu and Buddhist cultures. This ancient Buddhist monastery, with its serene atmosphere and traditional architecture, is a must-visit.
• Temples: The Narayan-Nagini Temple is a beautiful example of local craftsmanship and is dedicated to Lord Narayan and Nagini. The intricate wood carvings and the backdrop of the snow-clad mountains are a sight to behold.
• Reckong Peo: Just a short drive away, Reckong Peo is the district headquarters of Kinnaur. You can visit the market and the monastery here, which offers excellent views of the Kinnaur Kailash range.

Many hotels and guesthouses in Kalpa close down during the winter months due to the harsh climate. However, some reliable options do remain open, offering a cozy and warm retreat from the cold.

• Homestays: This is often the best option for an authentic winter experience. Many local families run homestays, providing delicious homemade food and a warm room, often with traditional heating methods like a bukhari (wood-fired stove).
• Hotels: Some hotels like Hotel Kalpa Deshang, Hotel Kalpa Retreat, and The Alpine Crest are known to operate in winter. It is highly recommended to book in advance and confirm their operating status and heating facilities.
• Zostel Kalpa: For backpackers and solo travelers, Zostel offers a comfortable and social option, often with a community of like-minded travelers.

Reaching Kalpa in winter is a true adventure, as the Hindustan-Tibet Road (NH-5) can be affected by heavy snowfall.

• By Air: The nearest airport is Shimla’s Jubbarhatti Airport, but flights are limited and can be unreliable in winter. A better option is Chandigarh International Airport, from where you can take a taxi or bus.
• By Train: The nearest major railway station is Kalka, which is connected to Shimla by a narrow-gauge railway. From Shimla, you must continue by road.
• By Road: This is the most common and practical way to reach Kalpa.
  • From Shimla: The journey to Kalpa (via Reckong Peo) is about 220 km and takes around 8-10 hours.
  • From Chandigarh: The journey is longer, around 335 km, and can take up to 12-14 hours.
  • Buses and Taxis: HRTC (Himachal Road Transport Corporation) buses operate to Reckong Peo, which is the last major town before Kalpa. From Reckong Peo, you can take a local bus or a taxi for the final 7 km to Kalpa. Private taxis can also be hired directly from Shimla or Chandigarh.

Important Winter Travel Tip: The road can be challenging with snow and black ice. It is essential to check road conditions before you travel. Pack heavy woolen clothing, thermal wear, waterproof jackets and boots, and be prepared for potential delays. Always carry enough cash, as ATMs may not be functional.

Kalpa in winter is a destination for those who seek to connect with the raw, untamed beauty of the mountains. It’s a journey not just to a place, but into a state of serene contemplation, where the grandeur of the Himalayas will leave you completely spellbound.

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