Ready to Ride? The Manali-Leh highway changes you. It’s dusty, exhausting, and demanding.

By Ajit Brar

There are road trips, and then there is Manali to Leh.

Spanning approximately 475 km across the spine of the Himalayas, this isn’t just a bike ride; it’s a rite of passage. It takes you from the lush green pine forests of Himachal to the stark, brown moonscapes of Ladakh. You will battle oxygen-deprived air, cross high-altitude passes that touch the clouds, and ride on some of the world’s most treacherous yet beautiful tarmac.

If you are ready to throttle up for the adventure of a lifetime, here is everything you need to know to conquer the Manali-Leh Highway.

• The Terrain Shift: Watching the landscape morph from green valleys to an arid cold desert in a span of 100 km is surreal.
• The Passes: You will conquer five major mountain passes, including Baralacha La (16,040 ft) and Tanglang La (17,480 ft).
• The Challenge: It’s man and machine vs. nature. The thin air, the Gata Loops (21 hairpin bends), and the water crossings (nullahs) will test your endurance.
• The Camaraderie: The “Ladakh Salute” (a nod or wave to every passing biker) makes you feel part of an elite tribe.

The classic route via the Atal Tunnel is smoother and faster than the old Rohtang Pass route, but still challenging. A 2-day ride is possible, but a 3-day itinerary is highly recommended for acclimatization.

Route Map: Manali → Atal Tunnel → Keylong → Jispa → Baralacha La → Sarchu → Gata Loops → Pang → More Plains → Tanglang La → Upshi → Leh

Day 1: Manali to Jispa (Approx. 100 km)

• The Ride: Start early. Cross the engineering marvel, Atal Tunnel, and enter the Lahaul Valley. The roads are mostly excellent.
• Stop: Refuel at Tandi. This is crucial—it is the last petrol pump for the next 365 km until you reach Upshi.
• Stay: Jispa. It’s at a lower altitude (10,500 ft) than Sarchu, making it perfect for your first night of acclimatization.

Day 2: Jispa to Sarchu (Approx. 85 km)

• The Ride: This is where the real ascent begins. You will cross Baralacha La, known for its heavy snow walls even in June. Watch out for water crossings like Zing Zing Bar.
• Highlight: Suraj Tal and Deepak Tal—two stunning high-altitude lakes right next to the highway.
• Stay: Sarchu. Accommodation here is mostly in tented camps. It gets very cold and windy at night.

Day 3: Sarchu to Leh (Approx. 250 km)

• The Ride: The longest and toughest day. You will tackle the Gata Loops (21 dizzying bends), cross Nakee La and Lachung La, and then hit the More Plains—a 40 km stretch of flat road at 15,000 ft where you can finally hit top gear.
• The Final Push: Climb Tanglang La (the second highest pass on this route) and descend into the Indus Valley to reach Leh.

1. Atal Tunnel: Stop at the North Portal for a photo op at the world’s highest highway tunnel (above 10,000 ft).
2. Suraj Tal: A turquoise lake just before Baralacha La. It’s the source of the Bhaga river and a photographer’s dream.
3. Gata Loops: Stop briefly (don’t linger too long due to altitude) to marvel at the stack of 21 hairpin bends you just climbed.
4. More Plains: Experience the “Grand Canyon” of India. The straight road flanked by eroded mountains is unlike anything else in the country.
5. Magnetic Hill: Once you reach Leh, take a short ride to experience this gravity-defying phenomenon.
6. Shanti Stupa (Leh): End your trip by watching the sunset over Leh city from this white-domed stupa.

1. Best Time to Visit

• Mid-June to September: The roads are open, and the ice has melted enough to be safe.
• Avoid Monsoon (Late July-August): Landslides in the lower Himachal region can block roads for days.

2. The Bike & Gear

• Bike: You don’t need a 1000cc beast. A Royal Enfield Himalayan, KTM Adventure 390, or even a standard Classic 350 works wonders. Ensure it’s serviced, with new brake pads and good tires.
• Spares: Carry a puncture kit, spark plug, clutch cable, accelerator cable, and chain lube.
• Fuel: Carry at least 5-10 liters of extra petrol in jerry cans if your tank range is less than 400 km.

3. Health & AMS (Acute Mountain Sickness)

• This is the biggest risk. Drink 3-4 liters of water daily.
• Carry Diamox (Acetazolamide) and start a preventive course 2 days before the trip (consult your doctor).
• If you feel dizzy or nauseous at Sarchu or Pang, descend immediately or use oxygen (most camps have cylinders).

4. Permits

• Rohtang Pass Permit: Only required if you take the old route over the pass. If you take the Atal Tunnel, you generally don’t need this.
• Ladakh Inner Line Permit: You don’t need a permit to reach Leh, but you need one to visit Nubra Valley or Pangong Lake once you are there. Apply online via the LAHDC website.
• Green Tax: You may need to pay a small environmental fee/Green Tax at the Manali barrier.

5. Mobile Connectivity

• Postpone your Instagram uploads. Prepaid SIMs from other states do not work in Ladakh. Only Postpaid connections (BSNL is best, followed by Jio/Airtel) work in Leh and key spots. Between Keylong and Upshi, there is zero network.

Ready to Ride? The Manali-Leh highway changes you. It’s dusty, exhausting, and demanding, but when you see those prayer flags fluttering against the deep blue sky at a high pass, you’ll know exactly why you came.

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