Banaras is older than history, older than tradition, older even than legend.

By Ajit Brar

Varanasi, the eternal city, known variously as Kashi (City of Light) and Banaras, is more than just a place on a map. It is a profound spiritual experience. As one of the world’s oldest continually inhabited cities, its essence is woven into the very fabric of Hindu mythology and history. While the city’s energy is palpable year-round, visiting in the winter months offers a uniquely serene and immersive experience.

Varanasi’s roots dive deep into antiquity. Mark Twain famously wrote that “Banaras is older than history, older than tradition, older even than legend and looks twice as old as all of them put together.”

• The Abode of Shiva: According to Hindu mythology, Varanasi was founded by Lord Shiva. Making it one of the most sacred pilgrimage sites. It is believed that dying here grants Moksha (liberation from the cycle of birth and rebirth).
• The City of Light (Kashi): Mentioned in ancient texts like the Rigveda, its name Kashi is derived from the Sanskrit word Kash, meaning “to shine,” symbolizing it as a beacon of learning and spirituality.
• Buddhist Connection: Just 10 km away is Sarnath, where Lord Buddha delivered his first sermon after attaining enlightenment, cementing Varanasi’s significance for both Hinduism and Buddhism.
• A Center of Learning: For over 3,000 years, Varanasi has been a hub for philosophy, art, and education, famously associated with figures like the poet-saint Tulsidas and modern-day legends like Sitar maestro Ravi Shankar and Shehnai player Ustad Bismillah Khan.

The winter season transforms the intense spiritual energy of Varanasi into a contemplative, comfortable, and breathtakingly beautiful experience.

• Ideal Climate: The period from November to February is the peak season for a reason. Temperatures are perfectly comfortable, ranging from a cool 10 Degree to 25 Degree. The scorching heat of summer is replaced by crisp air, making long walks along the ghats a pleasure.
• Atmospheric Mornings: The cold mornings often bring a beautiful mist that rises from the Ganga, wrapping the ghats in a mystical shroud. A sunrise boat ride through this mist, accompanied by the chants and bells from the shore, is an unmatched spiritual moment.
• Vibrant Festivals: The winter calendar is rich with festivals:
  • Dev Deepawali (November): The most spectacular festival, where all 88 ghats are illuminated by millions of earthen lamps (diyas), creating a truly unforgettable spectacle on the river.
  • Maha Shivratri (Late Winter/Early Spring): Celebrations reach their peak in the abode of Lord Shiva, especially at the Kashi Vishwanath Temple.

The Ghats: The Soul of Varanasi

The city’s life revolves around the 88 bathing ghats that line the western bank of the Ganges.

• Dashashwamedh Ghat: The most popular and lively ghat. You must witness the Ganga Aarti here every evening. The synchronized ritual of fire, music, and chanting is an electrifying display of devotion.
• Assi Ghat: Located at the confluence of the Assi River and the Ganges, this southern-most ghat is famous for its morning rituals. Including yoga and the serene Subah-e-Banaras (Morning of Banaras) aarti. It’s the perfect place for a peaceful sunrise.
• Manikarnika Ghat: One of the two primary cremation ghats. Witnessing the continuous funeral pyres is a profound, if intense, encounter with the Hindu belief in Moksha—the cycle of life and death.
• A Sunrise Boat Ride: Hire a boat early in the morning from Assi or Dashashwamedh Ghat. Cruising along the river as the temples and palaces light up with the rising sun is the definitive Varanasi experience, enhanced by the cool winter air.

Key Temples and Architectural Marvels

• Shri Kashi Vishwanath Temple: Dedicated to Lord Shiva and housing one of the twelve Jyotirlingas (most sacred shrines of Shiva). The narrow lanes leading up to the temple are an experience in themselves.
• New Vishwanath Temple (BHU): Located within the sprawling campus of Banaras Hindu University (BHU). This modern temple is open to people of all castes and religions, offering a quiet, grand space for reflection.
• Ramnagar Fort: Located on the eastern bank of the Ganges, this 18th-century sandstone fort houses a museum and is famous for its elaborate Ramleela celebrations in the autumn.

Beyond the City

• Sarnath: A crucial pilgrimage site for Buddhists, just a short drive from Varanasi. Explore the Dhamek Stupa, the ruins of ancient monasteries, and the Archaeological Museum which houses the original Lion Capital of Ashoka (India’s national emblem). The cool winter weather makes Sarnath a perfect half-day trip.

Varanasi is a major cultural and spiritual hub, ensuring excellent connectivity across India.

• By Air :
  • Lal Bahadur Shastri International Airport (VNS) is about 22 km from the city center.
  • It has regular domestic and international flights connecting to major cities like Delhi, Mumbai, Kolkata, Chennai, and several Southeast Asian destinations.
• By Rail :
  • Varanasi is a major rail junction with two main stations: Varanasi Junction (BSB) and Kashi Railway Station (KEI).
  • It is directly connected by express and superfast trains to almost all major Indian cities. Train travel is often considered the most convenient way to reach the city.
• By Road :
  • Varanasi is well-connected by National Highways (NH-19, NH-31, NH-35) to cities like Lucknow, Patna, and Allahabad.
  • Both government-run and private bus services operate regularly, and private taxis are easily available for a road trip.

Varanasi in winter is a pilgrimage for the senses—a time when the ancient city is at its most welcoming and reflective. It is a journey you will not soon forget.

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